Whether used for a feature wall or the whole room, wallpaper is an easy way to update your space. But before you get started, take a deep breath and prepare yourself for the process.
First, make sure the area you’re working on is straight using a spirit level and a pencil mark. Also consider how the pattern repeats and where seams will fall (see below).
Preparation
Before you even start wallpapering, it’s important to properly prepare the wall or ceiling. This might seem tedious but it is crucial for a smooth finish. Start by removing all furniture and soft furnishings and covering flooring with dust sheets (bed sheets will do) and cleaning the walls with sugar soap. If you are papering over bare plaster, you will need to’size’ the walls as well – this simply involves applying a diluted solution of paste.
Your first length of wallpaper, a drop, will need to be ‘plumb’ (straight). Use a spirit level to mark a vertical line down the wall and carefully place your first strip on top.
Your next few strips will need to be ‘booked’ if the instructions on your wallpaper recommend it. This means folding the ends of the strip onto itself and allowing it to sit for a couple of minutes to help the glue spread more evenly. You will also need to trim any excess paper from the top and bottom with a snap off knife and around any sockets, switches or fireplaces. I recommend this website for more wallpaper singapore.
Marking
It’s a good idea to move or at least cover furniture before starting wallpapering – especially if you’re using heavy-weight paper. The last thing you want is any snags or creases showing up in the final product.
Use a spirit level or plumb bob to draw a vertical plumb line on the wall where you’re going to start your first strip of wallpaper. This will ensure that the first “drop” of paper is hung straight and true.
You can minimize the visibility of seams by starting in the area opposite the most-used entrance to the room. This will ensure that the majority of the light hits the wallpaper first – and minimizes the chance of any dark or light patches falling on the same section of the wall (unless the pattern calls for it to be butted rather than overlapped). You can also start here to estimate where the internal corners need to be positioned.
Cutting
Before you begin wallpapering you need to prepare the walls and remove any existing coverings or lining paper. Ensure all sockets and switches are removed and a clean surface is left. Any holes can be filled and sanded to remove any bumps or ridges that may spoil the final result. If the walls are painted then they need to be sanded down and washed with sugar soap to help the wallpaper paste adhere.
Next, if you are using a paste-the-wall wallpaper then follow the manufacturer’s instructions and mix and apply the adhesive to your wall, ready to receive the first length of your chosen wallpaper. Unroll the first length pattern-side down and use a spirit level or plumb line to mark a vertical line across the wall, close to where you plan to start hanging. This is important because all the subsequent lengths will align to this line so it needs to be accurate. Also take into account the need for seams to be butted, not overlapped when planning where to start and end.
Hanging
Before you start hanging your wallpaper, turn off the electricity in the room and remove wall plates. This is not only to protect against electrocution but also because you will be using water to activate the glue and it can ruin switches and sockets.
The first length of wallpaper you hang is vital as it will form a ‘plumb’ line from which all others will align, so make sure this is straight by using a spirit level or plumb-bob. If it isn’t, the whole job will be thrown out of alignment.
To determine where your seams will fall (remember, they are butted not overlapped and are less visible if you use a pattern), put a full strip of paper against the corner and mark the edge with a pencil. Do this all around the room. If you want to avoid a bulky look, don’t mark over doors and windows. Also, before you apply your first strip, coat the wall with ‘wall size’, a primer/sizing product (we use Shieldz by Zinsser). This helps the paper adhere to the wall and makes it easier to smooth out.